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Do I need a filter?
Filters are necessary for ponds that have an excessive quantity of fish, especially large fish. Large fish create a lot of waste and stir the water, suspending particles in the water. These particles must be filtered out to avoid clogging the biological filter or fouling the UV Sterilizer. This is called pre-filtering. Some water gardeners rely only on a pre-filter to clear the water. This will work, but is best in combination with plants.
Water can be clear in the water garden with proper use of plants and water flowing over a water fall. The natural bacteria that populates the waterfall naturally filters the water. The plants act as a cooling mechanism for the water. Cooler water means higher oxygen levels; more oxygen means better beneficial bacteria growth. A filter is used to speed the process and to supplement the natural ecology of the water garden. See also the question, What is the difference between biological and mechanical filtration?" [TOP]
What is the difference between Biological and Mechanical filtration?
Mechanical filters are used to remove floating particles from the water. Biological filters are used to process the nutrients from the water using beneficial bacteria. The mechanical filter is attached to the intake of the pump, trapping suspended particles before they enter the working parts of the pump. The biological filter is positioned outside of the pond for easy access to the filter media where the bacteria grows. Ideally, the biological filter would be pre-filtered by a mechanical filter to keep organic debris from clogging the biological part of the system. [TOP]
Should I use an Ultra-violet (UV) sterilizer?
An Ultra-violet Sterilizer actually kills algae as it passes through the light emitted in the exposure chamber. The UV light is the surest way to rid a water garden of green water. Water gardeners who have a large quantity of large fish, or choose to use fewer plants than recommended, find the UV the best way to control single-cell algae. For the clearest water, use an Ultra-violet Sterilizer with a pre-filter flowing into a biological filter. [TOP]
Do I need a biological filter?
A biological filter is a great way to keep the water quality at optimum levels. The natural bacteria that populates the filter media processes the water as it passes through. Biological filtration is recommended when fish populations are high. The biological filter does not necessarily mean clear water (although it usually does), but it ensures the water quality by removing ammonia and nitrates naturally. Always pre-filter the water going into the bio-filter to maintain maximum efficiency. [TOP]
Can my waterfall be a biological filter?
The waterfall acts as one of the best, most efficient biological filters because it has a tremendous amount of wet surface area that harbors beneficial bacteria. With constant water flow over these irregular surfaces, bacteria thrive, processing organic pollutants out of the water. Particles of soil and organic debris that are suspended in the water settle out as the water flows over the falls. The water is also cooled and oxygenated as it moves over the stone surfaces. These are the essential components of manufactured bio-filters, just in a natural form. [TOP]
Why is my water green?
Water is usually green because of an overload of organic waste that is not efficiently being removed by beneficial bacteria. Many factors contribute to the inability of the bacteria to take care of excess nutrients. A new pond may not have enough bacteria established to efficiently remove nutrients. Given time, the problem will take care of itself. A high pH prohibits the natural bacteria from growing properly. The pH should be in the range of 6.5 to 7.5 for normal growth of bacteria. High pH often contributes to green water and excessive string algae growth. An overload of organic matter such as fish food, decomposing leaves, pollen and dust can contribute to the abundance of algae. Anything organic turns into fertilizer for algae as it decomposes. Once the nutritional value of the organic matter is depleted by the bacteria, the water clears up quickly, often overnight.
While there are algaecides, a natural approach using artificially applied bacteria, or simply allowing nature to resolve the green water on her own, is often the most effective long term solution. Beneficial bacteria can be obtained from powdered products or from Barley Bales that have a natural strain of bacteria on the stems. An AquaMat® provides a massive amount of surface area to grow beneficial bacteria, supplementing the existing biological system. [TOP]
What should I do about the stringy algae in my waterfall and pond?
Filamentous algae (the stringy kind) is a beneficial type of algae that harbors good bacteria necessary for clearing the water. The trouble with this type of algae is it is unsightly when it grows long in the stream beds, waterfalls, and along the sides of the pond. A short layer is good for the pond, but when it grows to two or more inches, it is often considered to be too much. Hand weeding removes the longest parts sufficiently if done every couple of weeks. Installing a barley bale for every 1000 gallons of water, twice a year promotes a type of bacteria that combats the stringy forms of algae. [TOP]
What is pH and how does it affect my water quality?
PH is the measure of the alkalinity or acidity of pond water. Read on a scale of 0-14, 7.0 is considered neutral. A normal range for the water garden is 6.8-7.8. Slightly higher or lower is not likely to be a significant concern. The health of the water is dependent upon correct pH levels. Natural, beneficial bacteria thrive in the normal pH range. Incorrect pH levels cause poor bacterial activity, allowing an abundance of waste by-products to build. The water begins to foul as bacterial activity decreases. Ammonia levels increase to harmful levels because bacteria are unable to process the ammonia (a by-product of fish waste), rendering it harmless. The end result is green water and potential problems with fish health.
Water garden pH fluctuates in a natural cycle each day. During photosynthesis, carbon dioxide is consumed in the daylight hours. This causes the pH to gradually (but temporarily) increase. As darkness approaches, the rate of photosynthesis decreases, the consumption of carbon dioxide slows, and the pH level decreases. Afternoon pH readings will always be higher. Check the pH in the morning before photosynthesis is at its' peak for a better idea of the actual pH level. Test the pH of the pond at the same time of the day each time you check. This gives a more accurate picture of the health of the water. [TOP]
How does hardness affect my water quality?
Hard water makes changing the pH more difficult than with softer water. The hardness refers to the levels of various dissolved compounds (mainly calcium and magnesium) in the water. Excessively hard water is usually associated with high pH. High pH water that is hard also tends to grow algae excessively, especially filamentous forms. [TOP]
Does bacteria really work in controlling green water?
Beneficial forms of bacteria are useful in promoting clear water. The bacteria uses nutrients in the water, especially forms of nitrogen, in their own growth process. This eliminates the nutrient source for single-cell algae. Powdered forms of bacteria work best on single-cell algae or green water. The Barley Bale has a type of bacteria that has been found to be effective against multi-cell or filamentous algae. [TOP]
What does sea salt do for my water garden?
Natural sea salt is used in the water garden to improve the function of gills and to reduce stress by restoring the slime coating (electrolytes) of the fish. The improved gill function is important during periods of fish illness when the gills are often impaired. Quick salt baths can be helpful in treating external parasites and fungal infections. [TOP]
How do I know how much salt is in my water garden?
A test kit is used to determine the salinity of pond water. The amount of salinity is usually quantified in terms of tenths of a percent or parts per million. The test kit goes on to give recommendations for safe levels or how to adjust salinity. This test must always be performed before adding salt to the pond. Salt does not evaporate. Once correct levels are established, the salinity remains the same, unless a water exchange takes place. [TOP]
What does ammonia do to my fish and water garden?
Ammonia is a toxic substance that is a result of the decomposition of organic fish waste or even decomposing flesh. It occurs during the nitrogen cycle which is a natural process the water garden goes through to rid itself of pollutants. Ammonia eventually breaks down into nitrates that are harmless, the final stage of decomposition of waste. The pond that has an overabundance of ammonia will soon turn green and the fish will exhibit stress. The stress manifests itself in burned gill linings that appear red or inflamed. This eventually results in death of the fish. Once ammonia levels begin to climb, the problem compounds itself by killing a fish which will raise the levels even further. Monitor the ammonia levels, especially in new ponds that do not have beneficial bacteria populations fully established. [TOP]
What are nitrates?
Nitrate is the end product of the decomposition of ammonia and nitrite, two harmful by-products of fish waste. Nitrate is harmless to the water garden, contributing only to temporarily green water and acting as a fertilizer to any plant in the water. [TOP]
What are nitrites?
Nitrites are a by-product of organic waste decomposing in the water garden. Along with ammonia, these two substances are particularly dangerous to the health of the fish. Beneficial bacteria break down this chemical compound into less harmful nitrate. [TOP]
Should I use carbon in my filtration system?
Carbon is used in a filtration system to remove odors and pollutants. If a chemical is accidentally spilled into the water, carbon filtration is used for neutralizing the toxic effects. Usually the carbon filter media or substrate is not used until it is needed for a problem in the water garden. Then it is placed in the filter box in granular form, enclosed in a mesh sack. Some filter manufacturers also make a carbon filter media. [TOP]
What does phosphate remover do for my water quality?
A phosphate remover neutralizes phosphates in the water, preventing the build-up of this algae-promoting substance. Phosphates are found in the water garden from a variety of sources. Rainwater run-off, fish foods, soil, fertilizers and decomposing plants and insects all contribute phosphates to the water. [TOP]
Do I need to treat the water with anything when I add fish?
During handling of fish, the slime layer that provides protection from infection is reduced and must be replenished artificially. This is often accomplished by applying a stress coat product that instantly restores the necessary protective layer. This is an extremely important step towards fish health. Stress coating products must be applied each time new fish are added to a water garden. Some de chlorinator products have stress coating materials added to them, check the label carefully to be sure. [TOP]
Does chlorine or chloramine hurt fish? How do I treat to get rid of it?
Chlorine or chloramine are added to kill organisms in the water. This also includes fish and even beneficial bacteria. Remove chlorine by applying a de chlorinator product to the water and to remove deadly chemicals. Do this each time a significant amount of water is added. [TOP]
What is the ideal pH range for my water garden?
Goldfish, koi and golden orfe prefer a range of 6.5 to 7.5 for ideal water conditions. This measure of alkalinity or acidity is important because the proper pH determines how well the beneficial bacteria contribute to breakdown of organic waste in the water garden. Too high or too low pH values slow the rate of bacterial activity that can also cause a build up of ammonia, nitrates, and even green water. [TOP]
How can I lower the pH?
Lower pH by applying a liquid or granular pH reducer made specifically for water gardens. Swimming pool chemicals are potent and can cause harm if the pH is drastically and quickly changed. Always check the pH before adjusting up or down. Check before and after each adjustment is made. Be consistent about the time of day the pH test is done, preferably in the morning. [TOP]
How can I raise the pH?
Raise pH by applying a liquid or granular pH reducer made specifically for water gardens. Swimming pool chemicals are potent and can cause harm if the pH is drastically and quickly changed. Always check the pH before adjusting up or down. Check before and after each adjustment is made. Be consistent about the time of day the pH test is done, preferably in the morning. [TOP]
How can I control mosquitoes in my water garden?
Mosquitoes breed in the shallow, still water around a water garden without fish. Fish are the best control for mosquito larvae. Fish eat them as fast as the newly hatched insects are detected. Place a mosquito-control product called a mosquito dunk into the water. The dunk is impregnated with bacteria which consumes the mosquito larvae. The Mosquito Dunk is a natural, non-toxic product, safe for humans and pets to touch. Get thirty-day control of the breeding of mosquitoes. [TOP]
Should I remove the leaves and debris from the bottom of my pond?
Organic debris of any kind should be removed promptly before it settles to the bottom of the pond. Debris lying on the pond bottom rots, using oxygen, and fouling the water. Cleaning the surface of the pond with a skimming system should be considered. The skimmer pulls water across the surface of the pond into a box where the pump is located. The leaves and surface debris are trapped in a net making removal very easy. [TOP]
What temperature should my water be?
Water temperature rises in spring as the daylight increases. Pumps can operate anytime the water temperature is above freezing. Moving water will prevent freezing of the pond surface. When water temperatures are between 45 and 55 degrees, fish can eat wheat germ-based fish foods. Installation of plants and inoculation of the pond with beneficial bacteria can be done at this temperature, also. At 55 degrees, higher protein fish foods can be utilized. Fertilization of plants begins in approximately 55 to 60-degree water temperatures. Water lilies begin to produce many floating leaves and lotus show the first signs of life. After the water temperature reaches 70 degrees, tropical or annual plants can be installed. More frequent fertilization can be done if recommended by fertilizer tablet manufacturers.
The water garden goes through to rid itself of pollutants. Ammonia eventually breaks down into nitrates that are harmless, the final stage of decomposition of waste. The pond that has an overabundance of ammonia will soon turn green and the fish will exhibit stress. The stress manifests itself in burned gill linings that appear red or inflamed. This eventually results in death of the fish. Once ammonia levels begin to climb, the problem compounds itself by killing a fish that will raise the levels even further. Monitor the ammonia levels, especially in new ponds that do not have beneficial bacteria populations fully established. [TOP] OR
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