AHHHH! Spring is in the air once again. The Spring Peeper frogs have once again given the signal that it is time to look around the water garden for signs of life. Just like everyone else who has had a taste (or feel) of warm weather you are itching to get your water garden into shape for the season. Before you know it, the garden will transform to a wholly different appearance for the warm part of the year.

THE PLANTS
As the earth tilts her mighty mass towards the sun, the Northern Hemisphere slowly warms, often fooling us with hints of warmer weather, but just as often cruelly taking it back. Plants growing in the shallowest water will sometimes put forth a few leaves only to have them nipped back by freezing temperatures. Like any other herbaceous perennial aquatic plants are resilient, occasional setbacks are only temporary. The deeper the water, the slower its temperature changes. New growth will be slower to appear in deeper water and will be later coming up to the surface, hopefully missing the early season freezes. Water lilies and other bottom dwelling aquatics will wait until the water warms to at least 45 degrees at their root level. When this temperature is attained growth begins rather rapidly, sending leaves to the surface.

Nutritional needs of the aquatic plants must be met each growing season. This is accomplished by inserting fertilizer tablets into the soil once growth begins. The signal to apply fertilizer is once the first floating leaf has appeared on the water lily. Follow label instructions on the type of fertilizer that is selected for frequency and dosage of application. Bog plants or marginal aquatics are often prolific enough that additional applications of fertilizer can be omitted, even though recommended by the label. Submerged plants like Anacharis, are never fertilized since they get their nutrition directly from the water through their leaves.

The water temperature triggers various changes in the water garden beyond the growth of the ornamental plants. The non-ornamental plant that appears while the water is still quite cold is the filamentous algae. This is the stringy growth that appears on all underwater surfaces, giving a fuzzy coating anywhere there is wetness. While some novice water gardeners may object to it at first, most soon recognize its importance to the ecological balance of the pond. The many micro-surfaces of this algae is teaming with bacteria that processes the organic pollutants out of the water. The other kind of algae that is found in the water garden is called single-cell algae, the kind that makes water look like "pea soup". This more undesirable form of algae is not supposed to be found in the water garden until the water warms up. If it is abundant in the winter or early spring, this is an indication of water that has been fouled or has an over supply of organic waste present in the water. Later in spring or early summer it is not unusual to see the pond green up with this algae, but the condition is relatively short-lived.

THE FISH AND SCAVENGERS
As we look beyond the plants, warmer water means the living creatures begin to get more active as well. While fish may be active during the middle of the winter, their metabolism increases greatly once the water temperature rises above 45 degrees. Feeding of the fish should wait until this time since the fish are not really able to digest food as efficiently as later in the season. Use only wheat germ based foods in the earliest feedings. Not until the water temperature reaches 55 degrees should regular fish foods be utilized.

Fish in a water garden are considered cold water animals. In other words, they do best in the highly oxygenated environment of cold water. Occasionally they succumb to cold water parasite infestations. This generally occurs during the early part of the season when the pond begins to warm up and in fall as the pond cools down. The affliction is called white spot disease or Ich (short for the parasite Ichthyophthirius multifiliis) and can be controlled easily if detected early. The organism looks like salt granules on the bodies and especially the fins of goldfish and koi. The fish will be lethargic, hanging near the surface of the pond, showing little or no interest in food. If the parasite is allowed to progress to advanced stages where the organism is apparent on the head and gills it is usually fatal. Products that are found in water garden stores for the treatment of "ich" are particularly effective. They will contain formaldehyde and malachite green as the active ingredient. This parasite will often occur in healthy ponds as a result of a sudden temperature change caused by sudden and severe downpours. The dormant creatures reside in debris and sediment at the pond bottom. They are even found on the bodies of the fish without any apparent harm until some sort of stress causes the fish to show symptoms of the disease. Fish that have been recently moved or handled tend to be more vulnerable as well.

The snails should be pretty much self-sufficient at any time of the season. They will feed themselves with algae, fish waste and any other organic debris that they come across. Tadpoles, toads and frogs will consume algae until they metamorphose into adults. As scavengers, these creatures help to keep algae growth in check. Other insects and crustaceans appear from time to time in a water garden and should be regarded as beneficial from a bio-diversity standpoint.

PUMPS AND FILTERS
Once it has been determined that growth is beginning to take place, it is time to get the mechanical parts of the pond in order. The heart of the water garden, the pump, is to be operating as soon as the plants show signs of life. It has been shown that a water garden pump can be operated year round with no ill effects on plant or fish life. If a water garden has been properly located in a highly visible place in the landscape, it hardly makes sense to have the falls turned off during the winter months. A statue or fountainhead should be disconnected in winter, but the pump can still be operated, gurgling towards the surface for a miniature geyser effect that provides interest to the pond even during freezing weather.

If the pump was shut down during the winter, it should be cleaned before restarting. All pumps should be cleaned by taking the volute off, the plastic part at the end of the pump that is held on by screws or by tabs of plastic. This piece consists of the intake and outlet of the pump. Once removed, this should be thoroughly cleaned with water. Magnetic drive pumps have a removable impeller that should be cleaned also. The impeller is the part that spins and pushes water out of the outlet. To remove this part, grasp on the fins of the impeller and pull it out of the body of the pump. A small bottle brush or toothbrush can be inserted into the hole where the impeller was to clean algae or debris out. The magnet of the impeller should also be thoroughly brushed. Both parts should rinsed after brushing. Reassemble the pump after cleaning.

Be certain the screen is in place to protect the intake of the pump. A pre-filter should be installed in place of the screen if desired. Clean and re-install or replace the filter media at this time to freshen it for the upcoming season. If the polyester or foam media is flattened or worn out, it should be replaced.

Filters that are located outside of the pond (bio-filters) are to be set up and turned on at this time. If they have been drained or bypassed, reconnect the inlet and outlet lines and get water flowing into the filter. It is desirable to keep water flowing through at all times to maintain highest levels of bacterial populations. Filter media, bio-balls or any other substrate material must be installed or renewed, if necessary, when setting up the external filter. Apply commercially available bacteria to the biological filter when starting the system for the season for peak efficiency. A powdered formula is best when grown in a bucket for two to four hours before releasing into the filter.

Reconnect all lines leading to UV sterilizer, statuary or fountain heads once danger of prolonged or deep freezing has passed. At this time the pond should be fully operational for the season even though the weather may still be cold.

STOCKING THE WATER GARDEN
New pond builders can begin stocking a water garden as soon as the ice is gone from the pond. Stocking of a water garden can be done at any time of the year if the pond is not frozen over. Availability is sometimes limited early in the season until plant growth is well underway. The plants most needed are underwater growth, like Anacharis, Myriophyllum and Cabomba and floating leaf plants, like water lilies since they provide shade for the water garden and protection for the fish.

Introduction of fish and scavengers is done at any time of the year unless the water is frozen over. The living creatures are best handled during the cold water time of the season. They are more resistant to stresses of moving since their slime coating is more stable when the water is cold. But more importantly, the dissolved oxygen levels are highest when the water temperature is low, making the healthiest environment for the fish. In newly constructed water gardens, the plants must be established for at least four weeks prior to introducing fish. While scavengers can be put in at any time, the waiting period is to ensure adequate levels of bacterial populations that eliminate fish waste from the water.

CONSTRUCTION AND RENOVATION
A great time to build a new water garden or add on to an existing pond is any time that the ground can be worked. Avoid renovations or new construction when the soil is wet or frozen. Many people prefer to undertake new construction when other garden projects are not yet under way. Having completed new pond work prior to the growing season leaves time for other pressing garden work and allows the most time for full growth potential.

Set-up patio ponds early in the season to allow this small-scale garden time to establish an ecological balance with algae, bacteria, plants and ultimately fish. Since this type of pond is often disassembled during the winter, the longer the season it has available, the more successful it can be. Just like any water garden, the patio pond can be set up during any time of the year, spring, summer or fall.

SPRING COLOR
Spring season begins the flowering succession that continues throughout the entire year. The first plant that will show off its blossoms is the Water Hawthorne (Aponogeton distachyus). The fragrant white flowers are seen in very early spring and even in late winter. This cold water tolerant plant boasts the ability to grow even in cold water of natural springs. The floating leaves will begin to diminish in size and disappear altogether in the hottest part of summer. The next plant to flower is the Golden Club (Orontium aquaticum). The curious, brilliant yellow flower spikes emerge from the rosette of growth soon after the Water Hawthorne and remain for about four weeks. Marsh Marigold (Caltha palustris) flowers in early to mid spring with showy yellow flowers among scalloped round leaves. Creeping Mazus (Mazus reptans) has profuse lavender purple flowers on a carpet of tiny ground-covering leaves. Some forms of Buttercup (Ranunculus)that are suited to water will flower in mid to late spring with flowers ranging from white to yellow. As the flowering of the Iris (Iris spp.) often heralds the arrival of spring the same is true in the water garden. No pond is complete without a succession of flowers produced by the many forms of the water iris. Colors form white to almost black, and everything in between, can be found from early to late spring and even early summer. One of the most interesting additions to a wet spot around the water garden is the carnivorous Pitcher Plant [left] (Sarracenia leucophylla). The unusual flowers are persistent for six weeks or more followed by the insect devouring trumpet shaped leaves. Be careful not to place them in water over their roots, as they do not tolerate more than damp soil with the bottoms of the root system in water.

The aquatic grasses provide color even though there is no flowering. The early season growth is striking and can be as interesting as blooms. The first hint of pink emerges from the pond in very early spring on the Variegated Manna Grass (Glyceria spectabilis variegata). This color will be visible for about six weeks then fades to a creamy white variegation on a mint green leaf. The Ribbon Grass named 'Strawberries 'n' Cream' (Phalaris arundinacea) begins the spring with a showy pink leaf that diminishes to a pale pink and white variegation. This ornamental aquatic grass produces pink plumes in the late summer as a bonus. Other plants that give color without flowers are the White Bulrush (Scirpus tabernaemontani albescens) or the Zebra Bulrush (Scirpus tabernaemontani zebrinus). These strongly variegated bog plants make a great show early in the season, the keep their variegations throughout the season. Consider these non-flowering bog plants for their early season interest.

Get the water garden going with a succession of color that leads into the summer. With proper plant selection, a pond can have interesting color from early spring to late fall.